Teacher: Where are you going?
Student: On pilgrimage.
Teacher: What is the purpose of pilgrimage?
Student: I don't know.
Teacher: Not knowing is nearest the truth.
--The Zen Book of Serenity
Walking the Camino de Santiago is a totally individual experience. As I wrote last week, initially people did it solely for religious purpose, to be forgiven for all sins. In the Christian faith, there are three important pilgrimages: Jerusalem, Rome, and Santiago de Compostela. A thousand years ago, pilgrims would simply pick one, step out their front doors and start to walk. None offered more redemption than the other two.
When I reach Santiago and step up to receive my Compostela--certificate of completion--I will be asked where I started. Although I will begin the actual walk in St. Jean Pied de Port, what should I say? Gainesville, because that's where I currently reside? Seattle, where I first heard of the Camino and the idea lodged? Chicago, where my heart is and where I will fly from, after a family send-off?
The other question that every pilgrim is asked on reaching Santiago de Compostela is this: "What was the purpose of your journey?"
The incredibly kind and patient Spanish people who work at the Compostela office, greeting each pilgrim and filling out the beautiful certificate, say most pilgrims pause at that question. They become thoughtful. Sometimes they are speechless. Sometimes they pour out their life stories. What may have started out as a lark with friends, or a cultural tour, has become something more profound. It causes one to take a minute to really look inward and do some serious introspection.
Just WHY did I do this 500 mile walk?
John Brierly, author of the "must-have" guidebook for the Camino, says this: "The purpose of pilgrimage is to allow time for old belief systems and outworn 'truths' to fall away so that new and higher perspectives can arise.'"
Imagine that you started the walk to, perhaps, enjoy an inexpensive holiday; visit some medieval villages; drop a few pounds; or sample the food of each region. Suddenly, someone is asking you the true purpose of your walk, and you realize that it turned out to be much, much more! In fact, you're not quite the same person who set out.
It can be a defining moment.
It's certainly a question I've asked myself. WHY am I so compelled to do this? Ordinarily, my idea of "roughing it" is a budget-level stay in my favorite hotel chain. Now, I'm suddenly eager to sleep in a dormitory with 100+ snoring strangers?
As the idea of walking the Camino grew, I got out a mini-Moleskine notebook and started to carry it with me all the time. I began to write down anything and everything that came to mind: possible itineraries; what to pack; alburgues that other pilgrims have recommended; cost of all my gear; inspiring quotes.
One of the first things was my list of "why"...
- Challenge my body and mind while I can
- Find good in the world; to walk in peace and safety
- Inspire my grandchildren
- Be part of an ancient ritual
- Reflect on my life
- Live simply and without plans
- Be open to what comes
- Take my first "semester abroad"
- Find peace within
- Celebrate a life passage
There may be other reasons--as you can see, I still have plenty of room on the page. Any of those listed is enough; each is important in its own way. Certainly, I'm fatigued by the current world situation. My wish to be remembered by future generations can't be ridiculed. And there should be plenty of opportunity to reflect over 500 miles.
But they say something mystical happens on the Camino. It aligns directly with the Milky Way, giving it special properties. They also say that every pilgrim leaves a trace of himself or herself on the path, and picks up traces of those gone before. The Camino pushes you during the first half, pulls you the rest of the way. It can be life-changing.
What will I answer when asked why I did pilgrimage? I'm not sure. But I promise to let you know, steadfast readers.
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