"One of the very nicest things about life is the way we must regularly stop whatever it is we are doing and devote our attention to eating."– Luciano Pavarotti
First, let me say I won't be buying and toting the pretty book pictured above. It costs $53, is hard-bound, and received mediocre reviews. Mostly, readers thought it was published as a money-maker, not an authentic Camino story. Folks thought it lacked the soul of a true pilgrimage. As always, the lesson: Don't judge a book by its cover. (But, I did include it today for its attractive artwork...)
There is no lack of information about food on the Camino. Certainly, not every meal is a culinary highlight, but the opportunity to taste your way across different regions of Spain? Woo-hoo! And the really, really good news? You can't consume enough calories to make up for those you are burning on the walk. The average weight loss of a pilgrim: 10+ pounds.
Let's "walk" through the day and see what's to eat, shall we?
Breakfast (Desayuno) on the Camino is similar to lots of Europe: coffee with milk (cafe con leche), toast or a pastry, maybe orange juice. No American or English breakfasts! Some alburgues offer desayuno to departing pilgrims, before closing at 8:00 am to get ready for the next arrivals about 2:00 pm. More likely, a pilgrim will set out and walk an hour or two before stopping at a bar or cafe for a dose of caffeine and a ton of carbs.
I will be on the lookout for one of my favorite Spanish foods--tortilla! Not to be confused with Mexican tortillas, Spanish tortillas are a type of omelet, made with eggs, potatoes, and onions. They're a snack or a meal, eaten warm or not...and they are delicious. I intend to eat a slice or two every single day.
For lunch, perhaps a quick stop at a little grocery (tienda) for some dried fruit, nuts, yogurt, or a banana. Most common is a sandwich (bocadilla) made of bread and marvelous Spanish ham. No mustard, mayo, lettuce or tomato. I've been warned that I will grow tired of bocadillas. At one point in the last third of the Camino, there is a sign: "No More Bocadillas!"
All along the way, in every town, a Pilgrim's Menu (Menu del Dia) is served. For about 10 Euros, you can get a three-course meal. Usually a salad, meat or a stew, and "an unremarkable dessert," according to Kevin Cobb, a two-time pilgrim. Example: a Dixie ice cream cup. Bread and water or wine included. The salad and meat change with the region. So does the bread and wine. And I happen to love Dixie cups!
As pilgrims get closer to Santiago de Compostela, they enter Galicia--famous for shellfish and octopus (pulpo). Trying the pulpo is a pilgrim tradition; many pilgrims pass up this opportunity. I admit to being nervous about about my first pulpo experience, but I wouldn't dream of not eating a food that a region is known for. Here's what Comida's magazine says: "Pulpo, or octopus, is to Galicia as soccer is to Latin America: almost a religion. And if people there are divided between Maradona and Pelé fans, here we classify ourselves by those who like octopus the way its prepared on the coast, and those who prefer how it’s prepared inland. Because, as strange as it might seem, the most important towns for pulpo in Galicia are located nearly one hundred kilometers from the sea."
Wait! What about tapas? Ah, we'll save that for another week....
¡Buen provecho!
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